Slider

Lagunas Altiplanicas

Day 2 in the Atacama Desert: 

Awaiting us today were some more lagunas (lakes). Today, we would be setting out to see the vibrant colors of the Lagunas Altiplanicas. This would include stopping in a few towns on our way to the altiplanic region, Toconao and Socaire, visiting Laguna Tuyacto and the Piedras Rojas (the Red Stones), and then ending the day watching the sunset over Laguna Chaxa in the Salar de Atacama.

Unfortunately, a couple of the other places I wanted to see in the Lagunas Altiplanicas were closed due to inclement weather. Those were Lagunas Miscanti and Miñique. If you are able to get there during your travels, please go and see them for me – they look so beautiful! Because those lakes needed to be eliminated from our tour, Luke and I had a relaxed morning to ourselves. We lazily slept in and then set out for breakfast at La Franchuteria. La Franchuteria is a delightful French bakery right in San Pedro. Our hotel, La Moneda del Desierto, brought in some of the fresh french baguettes from this bakery every morning, but we were on a mission to try the croissants. My co-worker had told me they made the most delicious croissants – even better than some she had when traveling to France! How unexpected in the middle of the Chilean desert, right?!

La Franchuteria, a bakery in San Pedro de Atacama.
The outside of the cute little French bakery, La Franchuteria, in San Pedro de Atacama.
Woman holding a baguette on the streets of San Pedro de Atacama.

Travel Advice: 

  1. Make sure to bring some cash (Chilean Pesos) for tipping. And get small denominations whenever possible. Some places are hesitant or flat-out refuse to make change for you. 
  2. Be prepared for limited coffee availability. Most places will offer only instant coffee, if it is available at all. Apparently not a lot of coffee is produced in Chile and the imports can be quite expensive! Tea is quite popular; however, so don’t worry, you’ll most likely still be able to find a caffeine fix. 🙂 

After breakfast, we met Papas Fritas back at our hotel to head to the Lagunas Altiplanicas. We enjoyed our time with him so much the day before that we asked if he could have him as our guide again. If you make it to the Atacama, I’d highly recommend that you ask for him as well! There was one other traveler joining us for the tour today and so we met Valerio, from Italy, who would become another great friend of ours that week. It’s pretty remarkable how complete strangers from different corners of the world can bond over shared tastes in music and learning about one another’s language and cultures. By the end of the week, we had new friends from Chile, Italy, and Uruguay. 

Along the way, we stopped to see two small, rural Chilean towns. The first was Toconao, where we would stop for a Red Bull. Per the travel note above, we were going through some serious caffeine withdrawal since the bakery’s coffee machine was broken. After popping into the convenience store, we took a stroll through the quaint town center to see the bell tower and the community church. 

Before departing, there was one more important stop to make: we needed to visit a llama! I got to feed him and I kind of forgot that llama’s are known for spitting, until, you know, he spat at me! 

Bell Tower in Toconao, Chile.
The bell tower in Toconao, Chile.
Town center of Toconao, Chile.
The lovely town center.
A church in the town of Toconao, Chile.
The church in Toconao, Chile.
Chilean llama.
My llama friend. The colorful yarn is a method for identifying one's animal, rather than tagging or branding.

A short while later, we came upon the second town of Socaire, located at an elevation of ~11,500 ft. We’d ultimately be reaching 13,000-14,000 ft today. This was our first time getting to that high of elevation, so we were a little worried about acclimating, but thankfully neither Luke nor I felt any altitude sickness. Nonetheless, it’s really important to acclimate. We had already been staying in San Pedro (~8,000 ft elevation) for a couple of days at that point and I’m sure the stops along the way to the Lagunas Altiplanicas helped us to acclimate as well. 

The church in the Chilean town of Socaire.
Small church in a town on the way to the Lagunas Altiplanicas in Chile.

While acclimating, we walked the town and had lunch. As promised, today, I made sure to take a picture of the lovely spread. There’s no doubt, the Chileans have fantastic taste and they know how to travel in style! Today, we’d be enjoying fresh salmon and quinoa along with a glass of Carménère. This was an exquisite shift from our usual travel lunch consisting of Cliff bars and trail mix. 

In another post, I also promised I’d eventually talk about Carménère, because it’s a wine that’s somewhat unique to Chile. I’m certainly no wine conosseiour, but Carménère is a deep red wine that originated in France. Unfortunately, disease devastated nearly all of the vineyards in France and the grapes were presumed to be extinct. Turns out, some of those grapes had been transported to Chile and the wine was re-discovered after being mistaken for Merlot for many years. Needless to say, if you go to Chile, be sure to try the Carménère and even take some home with you if you can! Regretfully, I could only bring back a single bottle since I didn’t plan ahead. I guess that just means we will have to save it for a celebratory occasion. 

 

Chilean salmon and quinoa lunch by Sorbac in the Atacama Desert.

Lagunas Altiplanicas

At last, we had begun to enter the region known as the Lagunas Altiplanicas. Our arrival was evidenced by the vibrant colors in every direction: blue sky, purple mountains, yellow grasses, white snow, turquoise lakes, and red stones. 

This portion of the day was mostly a driving tour with a few stops to get out and take photos. I feel like there is really nothing I can say here to capture the beauty of the Lagunas Altiplanicas, so I am going to defer to mostly pictures here. I’ve included a video too so you can see the conditions (to understand why Lagunas Miscanti and Miñique were closed) and meet our favorite guide, Papas Fritas! Don’t worry, only the first 20 seconds or so are in Spanish. 😉 

Enjoy!

Image Gallery

Be sure to check out the full gallery back at the main Atacama Desert page! And don’t miss the breathtaking sunset and the flamingoes at Laguna Chaxa

 


 

Resources

Tour: Full Day XL – Tuyacto + Piedras Rojas + Lagunas Altiplanicas + Salar de Atacama (excl. the closed portion of the Lagunas Altiplanicas)

Total Time: around 8 hours because of the closures. I believe the full tour would be longer! 

Activity Intensity: Very Easy

Company: Sorbac

*Disclaimer: These are not affiliate links so I will not receive any commission when you click. Any links provided are for your convenience and for experiences we can wholeheartedly recommend based solely on our personal experiences. To aid in identification, I’ve formatted links to other locations within my own blog in navy blue and links to external content in royal blue.


No responses yet

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

 

 

Upcoming trips

Sadly none, due to Covid-19.

Follow us

Subscribe to our blog!

By subscribing, you agree to receive notifications of our new content by email and agree with our Privacy Policy. You may unsubscribe at any time.

Kate Vista

Kate Vista

Hi there! I'm Kate. Welcome to my blog. In real life, I am an actuary, coffee addict, dog lover, and a newly minted blogger. In our spare time, my husband, Luke, and I like to hike in our home state of Washington. We also love active adventure travel to Scenic Vistas. See what I did there? :) I think we travel to some cool places and I just want to share our photos and experiences with you!

View Full Profile →